GETTING THE "FREE" GAME:

While Sony claims Legends of Norrath (LoN) is free to play, it isn't (surprise!).

The game client is free, but the cards you need are not!

Thus, while there are no "fees" to play, you will necessarily be spending money to obtain the cards and participate in tournaments. It's like getting an automobile free, but you still have to buy the engine for it, LOL.

If you play Everquest (EQ) or Everquest II (EQ2), the Legends of Norrath (LoN) game is "included" within those games (you can launch and play LoN through a window in those games).

However, you can also download and install a "stand alone" version of LoN from the Sony web site.

If you are going to play LoN, I suggest doing so via the stand alone version, to save on computer resources.

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GETTING (BUYING) CARDS:

In order to play (and play successfully), you need cards.

The only way to get these cards is via the Sony web site (you need a credit card).

Yes...... you have to buy them.

Cards are sold by the "expansion" (or better, series) in the following methods... various Starter Decks (55 to 58 cards for $10), Booster Packs (15 cards for $3) and Boxes (36 Booster Packs for $100).

On occasion, special packs (tournament packs, normally containing one special card, a "loot" card and 1 to 3 Booster packs) are sold for $10.

("Loot" cards are for use in EQ or EQ2 and have no purpose or value in LoN, otherwise, other than for "trading" value.)

Also sold "Event Pass" cards for $1 each. These cards are used to "pay" your way into many tournaments. The reality is that they are used to charge you real money to play in such tournaments.

However, tournaments can and often do have their rewards, up to and including real life prizes (not to mention tournament packs, booster packs...)!

In order to play with the various "standard" Starter Deck options, you will need to buy each of the starter decks.

In order to be able to "trade" with other players, you will need make a card purchase before this option if opened to you.

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MAKING DECKS WITH GAME PLAY CONSIDERATIONS:

If you purchased any decks, then you all ready have some pre-made generic decks, which you can use to play.

However, you are not limited to using those decks.

You can create your own decks (just click on the right icons in LoN and you can use the deck building "wizard" ...or free-hand it).

You can make as many decks as you please.

Decks must consist of a certain number of certain types of cards, with considerations to other matters such as archetype and faction (see below).

When selecting the cards from each "type," be sure to click on the appropriate "section" on the lower left side of your screen (to see your selected cards of that type) and then click on the "Show Valid Cards" button, in the bottom left (This will show you only the cards you can pick from for that type of card with your current archetype).

Also, keep in mind that you can NOT have more than four (4) of the same type of card in your deck.

Once a deck is complete, you can "Save" it under whatever name you choose (choose a name that will help you recall what archetype and/or purpose you created the deck for).

AVATAR

Each deck must contain an "Avatar" card.

This card represents you, the player.

If this card is "killed," you loose (and vice verse... except in one scenario I can think of... if you kill your opponents Avatar, you loose).

You can create and name your own "custom" Avatar.

To be clear, however, the player created Avatars, while they can have many variations, are not truly "unique."

The biggest variations are on race/sex, more so than anything else.

The stats are generally pre-determined by way of archetype and play style.

Your Avatar (for a deck) will limit your choices by way of card types that you can use, based on it's "Archetype," "Race" and to some extent, "Faction," and other factors.

ARCHETYPE

^{Fighter, Mage, Priest and Scout Card icons}

Archetype is a way of saying "class," and you can be either a Fighter, a Scout, a Priest or a Mage.

Many cards are "usable" only by certain archetypes, but most cards are of universal use.

Archetype is indicated by the symbol in the top right corner (in a circle there) of the card. If there is no symbol (circle), the card is of universal use.

Archetype will determine your "play style" (tactics or strategy) as well... after all, a Mage can cast from afar, but a Fighter must go in one-on-one, so to speak.

FACTION

^{Light, Shadow and Neutral Faction indicators}

Faction is another way of saying "alignment."

Cards are either aligned neutrally, with the "Shadows" or with the "Light."

The alignment of specific cards is indicated by the color of the circle in the top left corner of the card (white = Light, dark = Shadow, Gold = Neutral).

Neutral cards are of no consequence, but using cards that are Shadow or Light faction will be of consequence.

As you play the game, you can/will gain Shadow/Light faction.

Once you hit ten (10) on the faction meter (noted later), you benefit from bonuses provided by that faction (better stats).

However, at the same time, if you choose to play a card of the opposing faction (after that point), you are penalized (such as your Avatar taking damage).

QUESTS AND QUEST CARDS

^{Quest Card}

Each deck must contain four (4) "Quest" cards of varying value (2, 4, 5 and 6).

These "values" represent the "cost" to complete the quests (see "Ability" cards, below).

These cards are "goals" to pursue in the course of a game and form the basis of the conflict.

When choosing Quests, give strong consideration to the "effect" or "reward" that comes with each quest (noted on the cards).

Every Quest has some benefit/penalty, so to speak. Thus, you may want to give strong consideration on if you want to possibly suffer said penalties or possibly provide your opponent with said benefits.

Some effects are active while the Quest is on the Board, while others are activated when the Quest is accomplished.

Quest cards are retained in a "Quest Pile" during game play.

The "2-Point" Quest from each players Quest Pile is dealt to the game board right away.

When either Player completes a Quest, the next Quest is dealt from their pile to the Playing Board (in order, the 4-Point Quest, then the 5-Point Quest and then the 6-Point Quest).

If you complete four (4) quests before your opponent does, you win (and vice verse)!

Quests are "completed" by way of using "Ability" cards (see below), in the first phase of your turn (that is, if you have any "active" Ability cards, see below).

You will be prompted to choose one of the two (2) quests.

You choose by clicking on the Quest you wish to pursue.

This is accomplished by way of simply "applying" the Ability card to one of the two (2) quests on the playing board.

This is either done freely (if there are no opponent "Unit" cards at that quest), or you must first engage the opposing forces with your Avatar.

Win or loose that skirmish, the Ability card will be applied to that quest.

ABILITY CARDS

^{Quest Progress Meter (from center of playing board)}

Next up you need "Ability" cards.

The basic purpose of these cards is to accomplish quests.

Ability Cards often have a "token" or "quest value" (some have no quest value) that can be applied to each quest.

The quest value of an Ability card is shown by a number in the "gear" or "13-pointed star" graphic on the left side of the card (see sample card in the Quest Section, above).

Once you have applied enough "Ability" cards to a quest, you finish it and a new Quest is dealt from your hand into that Quest spot.

You also gain a "Quest Token" and gain at least one "Power" (see below) (actually, both Players gain one Power, no matter what).

Most ability cards have a quest Value of 1 (or more) towards completing a quest.

You will need at least enough Ability Cards to equal 17 points towards quests (which is the minimal amount you will need to complete four quests).

Normally, you want at least 14 to 18 Ability Cards, with considerations as to their "Quest Value" (some actually have no Quest Value, and many only have a Value of 1), as it may take several Ability cards (thus several turns) to complete one Quest.

You will only be able to apply one (1) Ability card to one (1) Quest per turn, if you have active Ability cards to apply.

When you apply an Ability to a Quest, the card is "destroyed."

With that in mind, and allow that you have at least one (1) 2-Point Ability up each turn, the game will last at least nine (9) turns, barring either Avatar being defeated (killed).

While Ability cards have a "Quest Value" (see above), they also sometimes have defensive and offensive values that can be used at certain times, to your advantage.

They also have certain "special abilities" that can be used at certain times.

You "play" an Ability Card by placing it in one of the three (3) spaces to the right of your Avatar (you can only have three Ability cards in play at the same time).

This will cost you a certain amount of "Power" (see below) to do so.

Once in play, the Ability can be used to aid in offense, defense or a "special ability" may activate (described on the card).

If you "use" an Ability card to defend an attack during the other players turn, you will not be able to "apply" it to a quest at the start of your next turn, because it has been "exerted."

If your Ability card is still "active" at the start of your next turn, you will be prompted to choose one of the two (2) quests on the board and "apply" it there (which may involve a skirmish with your Avatar, if any opposing "Units" are at that quest).

Win or loose the skirmish, the Abilities "Quest Value" will be applied to that Quest.

You will see a "Quest Meter" (see image, above) a small circle under the Quest with dots to represent how many "points" you have applied to a Quest (a similar circle on the top side shows your opponents progress).

If you complete the Quest, a new Quest will be dealt to that spot form your hand, you will gain at least one Power and you will see one of the four (4) bubbles in the center circle (middle of the screen... on the bottom side of that circle) fill-in.

These four bubbles represent your completed quests (the top half represent your opponents completed quests).

TACTIC CARDS

Next, you need a number of "Tactic" cards.

Normally, you want at least 10 to 14 Tactic cards.

These cards represent special "tactics" you can use in battles, with certain limitations. Many of them have no "cost" (Power) to play, but some do.

These can be handy in turning the course of a battle... or at least surviving it.

They are used to defend, attack, do direct damage and/or other special tactics.

They can only be used at certain times (you will know this because they will highlight/flash).

When choosing these cards give consideration to the costs an their effect.

ITEM CARDS

You will need 4 to 10 "Item" cards, with consideration as to their use and slot.

Item Cards represent your armor and weapons, so to speak.

They often have offensive and defensive values, as well as other special effects.

They are "played' by putting them in one of the four (4) slots to the left of your Avatar. Doing this will "cost" you a certain amount of "Power" (see below).

Once they are there, they can be used ("exerted") offensively or defensively, at certain other times and/or their "effect" becomes active.

Keep in mind, when choosing these cards, the "slots" they apply to, as you can only "use" one for each slot. Example, if you have two "Charm" items, you will only be able to use one of them at a time.

Also, keep in mind that you can only "use" (equip) four (4) items at a time.

Lastly, keep in mind how the item is used. If using it also means destroying it (your opponent can also "destroy" your items), you may want another Item to replace it with.

So, ten (10) items may be a bit too many, but four (4) items may be too few.

UNIT CARDS

Lastly, you need the "Unit" cards.

Unit cards are your ground forces... your soldiers.

These are the cards you place out on the playing board on the left and/or the right side (I call them "fronts").

The "fronts" are basically positions by each of the two Quests on the board.

Units have various stats and abilities that help you attack and defend.

You will need a good number of these... normally at least 12 to 18 Units (if not more).

You should choose a "balance" of units with considerations to defensive ability, health value, attack ability and other special abilities.

You may always need at least one Unit at each Quest. Otherwise, your opponent will have an undefended avenue to directly attack your Avatar.

DECK LIMITS

Playing decks can only have four (4) of any type of the same cards (meaning you can only have four "Grunt Soldier" cards).

Playing Decks can only have one (1) Avatar card.

Playing Decks should only have four (4) Quest Cards.

I suggest at least 14 Ability Cards.

I suggest at least 10 Tactic Cards.

I suggest at least 5 Item Cards.

I suggest at least 12 Unit Cards.

I have seen some player decks that had no units at all (caster deck), with the idea that regen and attack ability outweighed the need for "ground" forces.

If you believe the way to victory is killing the opposing Avatar and not Quests, you can go little or no Ability cards.

If you feel you have enough Units and defensive ability, you might go with little or no Item cards.

Whatever the case, I do recommend a balanced deck, but feel free to experiment.

The smallest deck I have seen (all cards included), is 34 cards.

The biggest deck I have seen is about 70 Cards.

There does seem to be a limit on usable deck size, I am just not sure exactly what that is. A good rule of thumb is to stick with a card count between 35 and 70.

Also, as a note of interest, diversity is not necessarily a good thing when setting up decks.

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GAME SEQUENCE:

Once you have the cards and decks set up, you need to understand the game sequence.

You first choose a deck you wish to play with, before you can play.

Be sure your "orientation" to the game board is in the proper perspective.

It is not a right vs. left board.

It is a top vs. bottom board (you are on the bottom), with a quest "battle field" on the left and a quest "battle field" on the right (see image in next section, below).

Your cards appear in the lower side of each "battle field" while your opponents cards appear on the upper side of each "battle field."

GAME START

^{Playing Board}

When the game starts, each player will have their 2-Point Quest dealt out onto the board.

Each Player will then have six (6) cards randomly drawn from their decks and placed into their hands (you cannot see your opponents hand, except in certain situations). You cards appear across the bottom. They can brought into full view by moving your cursor over them.

You will be presented with the option of keeping those six cards, or take 1 (one) Damage to your Avatar and redraw.

Choosing to redraw is not necessarily a bad thing.

In deciding to do this or not, one of the primary considerations is that you only have three "Power" to play cards with. So if you have an assortment of cards that are all 3 (three) or more Power to put into play, you may want to redraw. Or if you happen to get all of one type of card (re: all items), you may also decide it is a wise choice to redraw.

After this, actual game play (turns) begin.

TURN SEQUENCE

However, each turn involves a sequence of events, as follows:

1) GAIN POWER: You will gain power equal to three (3) plus the number of total quests completed by both Players, plus any specially earned Power;

2) DRAW CARDS: You will randomly draw two cards from your Deck;

3) QUEST PHASE: If you have any "active" Ability cards, you will be prompted to choose a Quest to pursue (not optional), which may involve a skirmish with your Avatar;

4) READY PHASE: All your "exerted" cards, except those exerted in the Quest phase or were exerted defensively during the opponents turn, become "ready" again;

5) MAIN PHASE: This is where you can "play" Cards (abilities, units, items) and initiate attacks ("raids"). It can be (and is) a bit more complicated than that, but that is the basics of it. Example, depending on the cards used and the actions you take, this may involve one or more battles ("raids") with forces at each of the two Quests and/or the opponents Avatar which can also involve "exertion" of abilities, units, tactics and items. Cards from both sides can be "destroyed" and will normally go into the "discard pile" of the owner. You can also "exert" your Avatar to utilize any special ability/benefit it may have (click the Avatar).

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BATTLE RESOLUTION:

Battle is decided by Offense versus Defense, plain and simple.

OFFENSE ABILITY/RATING

^{Card Attack Rating}

The offensive ability of a card is noted by the number on the "Sword" emblem along the left side of the card.

If there is no sword emblem, the card has no offensive value.

This same symbol can appear in card text, to indicate that the card has abilities that can be used in attack.

DEFENSE ABILITY/RATING

^{Card Defense Rating}

The defensive ability of a card is noted by the number on the "Shield" emblem along the left side of the card.

If there is no shield emblem, the card has no defensive value.

This same symbol can appear in card text, to indicate that the card has abilities that can be used in defense.

ATTACKING/DEFENDING

Attacking forces utilize the offensive stats, while defending forces use the defensive stats.

The idea is to have one (1) more offensive or defensive value than your opponent, to win a battle.

Having more than that is a waist of stats and exertion of cards, as it does not increase the damage you do!

To utilize such stats, you simply click the card and it will be "exerted" (used) for the offensive/defensive stats.

You can click and exert more than one card, but you can only utilize cards that are at that Quest (on that side of the board).

If the conflict involves your Avatar, the only additional cards you can use are your Item Cards and Ability Cards (if you have any in play).

USING TACTICS

You may also have the opportunity to use Tactic Cards in such battles.

If Tactic Cards can be used, they will highlight/flash.

They can be used to add to offense or defense and/or even other special tactics to include exerting opposing units, inflicting direct damage and so forth.

When used, they are "destroyed" and placed in the owners discard pile.

ATTACK/DEFENSE VALUES

^{Battle Display (from center of playing board)}

You will see a "battle display," so to speak, in the center of the board, above and below the center circle, you will see a circle for each player (yours in the lower circle). The circle will have a Sword or a Shield graphic (depending on if a player is on offense or defense) with a number over it. This is the number of concern for you, as it is the number you want to be one (1) more than the number in your opponents circle, if possible.

Players will be allowed to take actions until such time as they "pass" or they have no more options in adding to their attack or defense, before the battle is resolved. The person with the highest offense or defense score wins.

DAMAGE INFLICTION/DAMAGE BONUS

^{Card Damage Bonus}

The winning player (no matter if they were on offense or defense) will allowed the possibility of adding to the damage they inflict.

This additional damage is determined by non-exerted cards involved in the battle.

Cards with a damage bonus have a "burst" or "spiked ball" graphic with a "plus" (i.e. "+1") number over it, on the left side of the card. This number represents an a Damage Bonus, and any one (1) (and only one) of these cards can be used to increase the damage inflicted to your opponent.

The looser of the battle, will then have to choose where to "suffer" each point of damage (just click on the cards). There will be at least one point of damage (for losing the battle) plus any additional damage from the winner utilizing damage bonuses. You can "spread" out the damage among available (and highlighted) cards. Sometimes it may be a wise choice to put all the damage to one lesser card and destroy it, rather than harm the "better" card(s).

If there is only one card to choose from, unfortunately that is where all the damage must go. Luckily, any "left over" damage (there is more damage to take than necessary to destroy the card) does not carry over to another Quest or your Avatar (unless you Avatar was the defender/attacker).

WINNING AND LOSING

There five ways to win (or lose) a game.

1) Complete four quests, before your opponent.

2) Defeat (kill) the opposing Avatar.

3) Run out of cards in your deck.

4) Run out of time (timed play).

5) As otherwise indicated in the "scenario" (this are more like "loss" conditions, such as beating the clock, etc.).

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MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION:

FACTION METER

^{Faction Meter Display (arrow to right of Avatar image)}

On the right side of your Avatar's image, is an arrow (like a clock hand).

This arrow moves up as you gain faction with the Shadow or Light faction. The colored bubble (light and dark bubbles) at either end of the scale indicates which faction you are gaining "favor" with.

You start "Neutral."

Playing cards of either faction will move this meter in one direction or the other.

Faction value of cards is equal to the "power cost" of said card.

The arrow will move down for the Shadow faction (towards the dark bubble) and up for the Light faction (towards the white bubble).

Once the arrow gets all the way to one bubble or the other (all it takes is ten faction "hits"), you will align your Avatar with that faction and gain the "benefits" of that faction.

If you have chosen to mix opposing faction cards in your deck, at the point you maximize faction on one side or the other, cards of the opposing faction become harmful to you! What happens is that you will suffer 2 Points of Damage to you Avatar, if you play one!

Thus, if you chose to mix your deck with shadow and light cards, you may want need to balance your card use as to not max out either faction... sacrificing the faction benefits. Otherwise, you sacrifice the cards you can play or are forced to suffer the consequences for playing cards of the opposing faction.

DISCARD, QUEST, IN HAND AND DECK PILES

^{Card Piles (explained below)}

To the far left of each Avatar, are three small card icons with numbers beside them.

The upper symbol (like a "spread" of cards) represents how many cards are in the players hand. These are the cards a player currently has available to put into play.

The middle symbol (like a "stack" of cards), represents how many cards are left in a players deck. These care cards a player still has in reserve and can draw into his/her hand, later.

The lower symbol (card with an arrow symbol), represents a players discard pile. These are cards that have been discarded, used and/or destroyed and are no longer in play or available to draw into ones hand (except in special circumstances, such as when certain cards allow or require you to draw from the discard pile).

Just above or below the previously noted symbols (above), is a box with seven circles (with symbols in them) and a Turn and Match number indication.

The Circle with a "Q" in it represents your Quest Pile. This is where each players four (4) Quest cards are retained and automatically "played" when necessary.

The other circles/symbols represent turn phases and the Game Menu.

POWER

^{Power "Cost" Indicator (number in the circle) and Power Meter Indicator (stacked Blue lines to the left of the Avatar image)}

"Power" is basically the number of points you have to "spend" in playing cards.

The "cost" to play cards is always indicated in the top left corner of a card (number in a circle). If there is no number there, the card does not cost any Power to play (but it may only be playable at certain times).

Playable cards, with little exception, have a "cost" of at least one (1) Power to put in to play.

Your "Power" meter can be seen on the left side of your Avatar's image, by the blue colored bubbles/meter.

You start with three and gain one for every completed quest (even if completed by your opponent)... plus any "specially" earned Powers via certain cards/quests.

It may be wise to leave at least one (1) Power unspent for use in defense versus opponent attacks, rather than spend them all during your turn.

HEALTH

^{Card Health Value (Number in the "heart") and Card Health Meter (stacked red lines on left of card)}

Avatar and Unit cards have a "health" value.

This value is represented by the number in the "Heart" symbol on the left side of a card.

When a card is played, this heart converts to a meter on the left side of the card (red bubbles)... to include your Avatar.

When damage is inflicted to a card, the health is reduced.

Once all health is gone, the card is destroyed.

CARD LORE

^{Closed and Open Scroll icons}

Many cards have "lore," which is basically just some sort of story line or "fun" info.

Cards with lore have a "scroll" symbol in the bottom left.

If you hover your cursor over any card, a large version of it will appear on screen.

Click the "scroll" icon on the smaller card and you both cards will show the "lore" of the card.

CARD SPECIAL EFFECTS OR ABILITIES

^{Faction Effect indicators (white and grey circular symbols) and "keyword" ability indicator (underlined word in blue text)}

Many cards have a special effect, or ability.

These effects normally take place when played, can be activated or are always in effect as long as the card is in play.

These effects can vary widely and are generically outlined on the card itself.

Some effects are different based on faction and/or only work with factions.

If so, the card will reveal this as well (white bubble icon reveals the effect the Light faction, dark bubble icon reveals the effect for Shadow faction).

Other abilities are only noted by a key word. For those effects, see below as to what they mean.

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TRADING CARDS:

Other than buying decks and packs and receiving random cards, you can also trade with other players.

The LoN game has a trade feature to include a chat room to barter in, set trades offered by players to browse and accept (if you like) or the ability to post you on "set" trades for cards you want/need.

In order to trade, you must have first purchased some cards form the Sony web site, before you will be allowed to do this.

You can also browse other players collections and barter trades for their cards.

The most "valuable" items in "trade value," in my opinion is (in order):

1) "Loot" cards

2) Tournament Packs

3) Booster Packs

4) Event Passes

5) Individual Cards

6) Starter Decks

In all honesty, the questionable business people (traders who are actually in it for a profit) own the trade market, for the most part. However, if you watch the offerings on a regular basis, you can often find what you need for a price you are willing to pay.

In the long run however, you are simply going to have to expend real money to buy boosters, event passes and tournament packs as future trade investments... or spend a lot of in-game (EQ or EQ2) effort and coin to obtain decks and boosters and card drops from there.

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TOURNAMENTS:

Tournaments are operated and conducted by Sony.

Each Tournament has a set number of rounds and "elimination" guidelines. This is noted in advance.

Each Tournament also offers up rewards (based on how you finish or a generic award just for participation) and will cost you a certain number of Event Passes to participate (also noted in advance).

More often than not, if you become a good player, Tournaments are a good way to enhance you collection, as many offer up special cards, packs and booster packs for participation and/or as rewards for finishing in the top.

Most Tournaments are conducted in th "Swiss" format, meaning you aren't normally eliminated with one or two defeats. Example, if the first round is a set of six matches, you will be allowed to play in six matches, even if you loose them all. You simply will not advance to the next round.

You are matched up with you opponents based on "points" which work to try and place players of competitive ability against each other. You earn one (1) point for a loss and three (3) points for a win. So, the first match may be a random match up, but the second round will pair you with a player of equal points and so on.

Many matches/rounds also have time limits, with each player have a time limit clock of their own. This is stated up front. If your match takes longer that the allotted time, it will be ended, unfinished.

I am not sure, but if a match ends due to an expired time limit, the opposing player is granted the victory by default.

There is also a "tie-breaker" system in the event of ties (by way of points). Basically this is a "strength of field" tie-breaker where the total points of your defeated opponents is compared, to determine who had the "toughest field of opponents" and thus, is declared the winner. 

The "types" of tournaments normally conducted are:

1) RELEASE EVENTS: Normally costs twenty (20) Event Passes and happen the weekend when a new "set" of cards is released. Players play with "sealed" decks (they are given a random Starter Decks and two Boosters to open and use as their "play deck" for the entire event).

2) LOOT EVENTS: About once a month, new in-game (EQ and EQ2) card drops are introduced with "events." These events are where you are awarded "Tournament" packs just for participation (win or loose). If you do well, you can win more stuff as well. These events normally cost at least  five (5) Event Passes to enter.

3) WINNER'S CHOICE: These tournaments are generally the tougher ones. This is because the winner gets to choose his own "loot" reward. As a result, the winner can choose some valuable items, especially for trade purposes. Because of this, the event attracts many competent and accomplished players. These events generally cost at least five (5) Event Passes to join.

4) CHAMPIONSHIP AND QUALIFIERS: These events are normally "free" to join. The "qualifying events normally take place once a month, with elimination matches one day and the final round the second day. The top 16 players normally get at least $50 worth of prizes (or cash). Winners qualify for a bye into the Annual Championship Tournament, each year (air faire and hotel accommodations can possibly included in your prize!). This Championship is for major prizes (as much as $100.000)!

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